By Jordan Meadows
Staff Writer
North Carolina lawmakers advanced a bill that would dramatically reshape how the state regulates natural hair braiding and other textured-hair services, cutting hundreds of required training hours down to just 10 hours focused on infection control.
NC Senate Bill 808, which has cleared key Senate committees and passed the full Senate, would replace the state’s current 300-hour natural hair care license with a simplified certification process requiring a short training course and exam. The measure also creates a separate licensing track for hair design services and reduces overall cosmetology training requirements from 1,500 hours to 1,200.
Supporters say the changes are long overdue for an industry that has historically been tied to Black cultural practices and entrepreneurship, particularly among Black women who make up a large share of braiders and natural hair specialists across the state.
“This is about removing unnecessary barriers and expanding opportunity,” said Alamance Community College cosmetology instructor Hilary Cook. “You are removing barriers and expanding opportunity.”
Natural hair care under the bill includes services such as braiding, twisting, wrapping, locking, and extensions—techniques that are widely used in Black communities across North Carolina. Advocates argue that requiring hundreds of hours of cosmetology training—much of it focused on chemical treatments—has made it harder for many Black stylists to enter the profession legally or start small businesses.
Sen. Amy Galey, one of the bill’s primary sponsors, said she has heard from constituents who feel weighed down by the current system.
“I want to be sure that women get into the workforce and that we don’t put irrational barriers in their way,” Galey said.
Sen. Natalie Murdock highlighted that “more than 30 states do not regulate natural hair care services,” noting that North Carolina’s approach is stricter than much of the country. “So many stylists I know who leave their jobs so that they can go to school and get all of the requirements have feedback that they think it’s burdensome compared to other states,” Murdock said.
But the proposal has also sparked concern from regulators and cosmetology educators who argue that the reduced training could weaken public health protections.
Lynda Elliott, executive director of the North Carolina Board of Cosmetic Art Examiners, warned lawmakers that the proposed 10-hour requirement may not be sufficient.
Natural hair care applies to all textures and nationalities,” Elliott said. “People of every background seek these services, like braiding, twisting, locking and hair extension. So someone that does not have any knowledge… needs to understand how to do this safely.”
Some opponents say infection control training is especially important because braiding and scalp-based services involve close physical contact with clients, and inadequate training could increase the risk of sanitation issues. Elliott has recommended expanding the requirement to as much as 100 hours. Despite those concerns, Senate Republicans backing the bill say they are confident in the reduced requirements.
“We’ve looked into it, and we felt comfortable that the path we’re on is the appropriate one,” said Sen. Tim Moffitt, another sponsor of the legislation.
