By Steven Worthy and Sarah Ratliff
Special To The Carolinian
In an earlier article, I wrote about Puerto Rico in general as a great tropical vacation without a passport being necessary. I touched on getting a rental car, rooms, finding the prefect flight, etc. Now that the decision is made to travel, no doubt the next question one may ask is “Where do I go?” There are wonderful beaches, cities, mountains, and in each place, there are absolutely wonderful people to meet. After doing what was mentioned in the previous article, based off a long curiosity, I made several more trips to Puerto Rico after taking an initial five-day trip--really a 3-day with 2 days for travel, as I felt my first journey was not long enough as there is so much to see in a small island of 100 miles long and about 35 miles wide. As a suggestion to readers, I say to see much of the island in a short time for a first trip, try barnstorming to see different regions, which may require a bit of driving. While Google maps exist to navigate, I’d strongly suggest the Puerto Rico map from National Geographic as it not only shows the roads but also pinpoints attractions around the island. Costs about $15 and it’s worth it! Also, find the guide called Places to GO Puerto Rico, as it is excellent to find places to explore--found in the airport, hotels and at placestogopr.com San Juan will most likely be your first stop to get a feel for the Island. I recommend a night’s stay in the island’s capital city. After time to walk the streets of Old San Juan, admiring the architecture and unique ambience of the city, retrieve your vehicle (strongly suggest a 4x4!) from one of the decks or parking areas, go east toward Carolina (pronounced care-o-lean-ah) and drive by beautiful and popular beaches. Stop, if you wish to see the stunning landscape, of Barrio Pinoñes for a taste of good local foods from the numerous stands and kiosks. Driving from Pinoñes, next city is Loiza, the center of Afro-Puerto Rican Culture. Former slaves were brought to this region of the island in the early 1500s and many of the traditions, foods, including music (think Bomba! and the Money Dance) came with them, and over the ages, greatly influenced the Island. One could argue Puerto Rican culture would not be what it is without these important cultural influences. If you’re feeling adventurous, partake in Bomba Dance lessons held at the beach. If you visit in July, there’s the St. James Festival where you can march with Vejigantes (found only in Puerto Rico), celebrate and take part in the celebration patron saint of Loiza.
Further down the road on the drive is Luquillo where there are well-known and beloved beaches along with the Kioskos de Luquillo with souvenirs, foods, and just a place to socialize. As the El Yunque Rain Forest is nearby, I took in a chance to see part of the rainforest at the Carabalí Rainforest Adventure Park with horseback riding, ATV/side-by-side tours through the rainforest to see absolutely stunning vistas! I took part in it but recommend making reservations early as it can get busy and was totally impressed! It’s a must-do when in Puerto Rico. I recommend the two-hour tour in the rainforest to feel getting your money's worth. Fajardo at night is very popular to kayak in one of the few Bioluminescent Bays in the United States. All I can say on this is to search it out and try it! This is for another trip one day for me! From here, I drove west across the Island on the Autopista (think turnpike) toward Aguadilla to take in some awesome views of the Caribbean during a late afternoon! Time was limited here but from the beach, colorful houses on the hills that are unlike anything in the Continental United States. After Aguadilla, drive west on Highway 2 toward Mayagüez (pronounced my-a-whez) depending on the time of day, road turns left and the absolutely most magnificent vista of the Caribbean you will see anywhere. A rest area is there to take it all in! Mayagüez, western most seaside city on the island, is a nice stop to be in another larger city different from San Juan. Friendly people, great food, and if staying near the Columbus Plaza, people are there to dance, sing, play the Bomba or Plena (which I’ll cover in a future article). Also while at the Columbus Plaza, I highly recommend the Puerto Rico grown coffee from the kiosks. While I am not a coffee drinker, the smell of the fresh brew has anything in the USA beat by far! If there during Christmas or Three Kings Day, look for the unique lightshow on the Alcalde (City Hall) as the City changes up the designs every year. In Mayagüez, as well as other areas, while there are many fun and interesting places there traveled to at this point, still remember to be aware of your surroundings wherever you go. A couple of blocks away from the Plaza, you may find the smells of beef or chicken pastelillos or empanadillas (empanadas to us). Be warned, you can’t eat just one. These local delights will cap the trip to the seaside city! From this city there are choices on how to cross the island for something different. The Ruta Panoramica, a road which goes through the mountain region of Puerto Rico and stretches to Yabucoa in the Southeast or go south on Highway 2 which leads to the City of Ponce.
Driving through the mountains in Puerto Rico is what I like to describe as the exhilaration of the Blue Ridge mountains enhanced by the hot Caribbean sun peeking through a canopy of bamboo. But be forewarned, though, the narrow and undulating mountain roads are a patch work of uneven pavement and potholes. My recent sojourn made me thankful I had a 4x4. I’m told sinkholes are not uncommon on these roads. To make matters even more exciting, the higher up you drive, don’t be surprised to encounter sudden drop offs. One learns the art of swerve driving very fast. It’s both exhilarating and nerve racking all at once! Utuado (pronounced Utwatho) Caguana Indigenous Ceremonial Park is a favorite among tourists and locals alike. A tour guide at the park will show you what life was like for these indigenous people also found throughout Jamaica, Cuba, Hispaniola and The Bahamas. Through the tour guide’s narrative, you’ll learn about how the Taíno prepared food, lived communally, built homes, reared their young, and the games they played. Many of their rituals are told through the petroglyphs, which endure to this day. Because it is one of the most significant archaeological sites in the Caribbean, it’s not uncommon for the park to be visited by Taíno organizations for a festival and to provide history and education. A short drive from Caguana on the 111 east will drop you out onto the 10, which connects Arecibo, Utuado and Ponce. Once on the 10, drive five minutes north to Río Abaja, which is in what locals refer to as “karst country.” Its protected lands allow the Puerto Rican parrot—on the endangered list—to live in their natural environment and fly freely. Jayuya (pronounced Hi-yu-ya) Also known for having once been home to the Taíno, in Jayuya you’ll find numerous historic sites and the annual Festival Nacional Indígena. Jayuya also boasts the tallest peak on the island, called Cerro Punta, which is a surprising 4,389 feet. Also, a favorite for both tourists and locals is the hot air balloon. If you’re into them, The Globo Aerostático de Jayuya is a must! It’s accessible via an undulating road that opens to some of the most spectacular views available on the island with temps often dropping into the low 50s in “winter.”
Adjuntas (pronounced A-hoon-tas) I was surprised to learn that much of Puerto Rico’s coffee comes from Adjuntas. Each coffee producer has its own flair. Adjuntas is perfect for coffee because its mountains are high and the weather is cool. It’s the second coldest municipality on the island. Also in Adjuntas are Lago (Lake) Garzas and Casa Pueblo. The former is a man-made reservoir that supplies many in the town with its drinking water along with hydroelectric power. The latter was founded in 1980 and has, over time, become a model of sustainable development and environmental protection. Utuado, Jayuya and Adjuntas were all instrumental in the 1950 uprising, with lots of references throughout these towns to commemorate the important date in Puerto Rico’s history. Between its majestic appeal and the history, I believe the mountains of Puerto Rico are truly spectacular. Driving can be a vacation all its own, given the thrill factor, but for those who like destinations, it’s impossible to cover them all. I’ll just have to return. The sojourn through the mountains is quite unique and an experience to itself. After driving in the Puerto Rico Mountain Range, driving the North Carolina Mountains will forever be a walk in the park! Trust me! Choosing to drive on Highway 2 toward Ponce, with the sea to the South of the Highway gives another spectacular view where it’s irresistible to not look at it but have to keep eyes on the road! Make a stop in Yauco for coffee and take in Yaucromatic! Colorful buildings painted by local artists, along with murals and the crochet tree. Definitely a must-see. Take a drive up the hills to see the colorful buildings or can park & walk to the destinations. Once in Ponce, make a trip to the eastern part of the city on the Autopista to see the large letters, which serve as the gateway to the City. I tried getting a photograph of all of the letters in one unstitched panoramic photo, but it is difficult when off the road. Do NOT try to photograph when on the road facing it as it can be dangerous. I considered it but did not do it! In Ponce (pronounced pawn-SAY), if fortunate to stay in the historic downtown area at one of the historic hotels around the Plaza de las Delicias (Plaza of Delights or Delights Square), you will see the main cathedral, The Cathedral of Our Lady of Guadalupe. This is a must-see with its architecture, historic fountains and monuments to famous Ponceños (people of Ponce) who contributed to the City. Restaurants, gift shops are around the square with the Alcalde (town hall) on one side. On one end of the square behind the cathedral, there is the Historic Parque De Bombas firehouse painted in red and black from the 1800s. It stands as a memorial to firefighters in Ponce.
If there on a Sunday Night, take part in the concert by the Banda Municipal de Ponce (Ponce Municipal Band) that has played at the Square since 1883 after its founding by Juan Morel Campos. Each Sunday, if not raining, the street in front of the historic firehouse closes, people bring their outdoor chairs and listen to the smooth sounds of the Band. You will hear anything from Broadway tunes, Plena (style of music originated in Ponce), salsa, danzas by Morel Campos himself, and the band was known to take on music from Bad Bunny! At times, the town choir may fit into the outdoor free concerts. When I am in Ponce, I try to set my vacation to listen and enjoy! Grab ice cream cone or cup from Kings Cream, a Ponce institution(!), and enjoy the concert! Similar to Utuado, Ponce has a historic Indigenous Peoples Park called Tibes (Tee-BESS). Taking a walk through the grounds reveal petroglyphs, a ceremonial and living area, and see trees the Taino (the inhabitants of the Island before Columbus) used for natural remedies and still used by many on the Island today. Like anything historic, be it in the USA or in Puerto Rico, please take care to enjoy and not damage the natural area. From here, you have the option to drive back to San Juan and fly back home depending on how the trip is set up. As I experienced, I was extremely happy to go to Puerto Rico but felt I missed much and have planned successive trips! I am planning my fifth (!) trip in two years and each time, meeting more people and finding very unique places to travel and loving it each time. Yes, there’s much more to what is in Puerto Rico than what I mentioned here but the only way to find out is to get out and discover! Oh yes, don’t forget to bring back some coffee! Get it in the grocery stores as it much cheaper than the airport! Finally, be sure to take many photos as you will want to remember your tropical vacation. When back, don’t say Debí Tomar Mas Fotos (I should have taken more photos!) when you return home. Also, if inclined to write, keep a travel journal as another way to remember the trip. Co-author Sarah Ratliff is a corporate America escapee turned eco-organic farmer and writer. She and her husband, Paul, own Mayani Farms: a self-sustaining and organic farm in Utuado, Puerto Rico. https://mayanifarms.com/
